Horizons
611 S. 7th Street
Philadelphia, PA
215.923.6117
www.horizonsphiladelphia.com
James Beard Foundation
167 W. 12th St.
New York, NY
212.627.1064
www.jamesbeard.org
No sooner did the notice from Vegetarian Times hit my Facebook page than I picked up the phone and made a reservation. For the first time in 23 years, the James Beard Foundation was having a vegan dinner – a vegan dinner prepared by Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby of the highly acclaimed Horizons vegan restaurant in Pennsylvania at Beard’s Greenwich Village townhouse. This was an opportunity I couldn’t miss.
Beard’s townhouse was left to Reed College, but chefs such as Julia Child thought the place needed to be preserved for food events. So with help from folks like Wolfgang Puck, they put on fundraisers and managed to buy it and create the foundation. Now there are food events there about 250 days a year.
When I arrived, the place was already packed. Guests walk through the living room, into the kitchen and in the back to the atrium, where hors d’oeuvres and sparkling wine are served.
Some of the wines for the evening (above).
Hors d'oeuvres included:
Oyster mushroom fritters with aguardiente creamed spinach
Black olive blini with truffle cream, golden beet relish and seaweed caviar (above)
Edamame purée with crispy sushi rice, gochujang, daikon and nori dust
Grilled seitan with crispy tortillas, whipped avocado, cilantro and green olive relish
Dinner began with portobello carpaccio (above) with crispy capers, rosemary mustard and spaghetti squash latke. It was served with a 2007 Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino. The mushroom on this was sliced incredibly thin, giving it a very different texture. It was excellent.
The next course was saffron–cauliflower bisque with fennel confit crostini and oloroso sherry cream. It was served with a 2008 A to Z Pinot Gris from Pennsylvania, which was a very pleasant surprise. All of us at our table were completely taken with it.
The caramelized celery root ravioli with charred brussels sprouts, smoked royal trumpet mushrooms, and sage-grain mustard emulsion was the one dish that didn't quite work for me, although the brussels sprouts were very tasty and nicely cooked. This was served with Chaddsford Winery 2007 pinot "NoPinot" noir.
Peppercorn-seared tofu (above) with creamed leek and truffled parsnip purée, salt-roasted golden beets, hazelnuts, and apple cider vinegar reduction was outstanding. I generally don't eat tofu, preferring vegetables instead of substitutions for animals, but this was so tasty and nicely flavored and had a wonderful rich texture. It was another of the standout dishes of the evening.
The heirloom pumpkin cheesecake with chestnut candy and quince jam was made with tofu and was so rich, smooth and creamy, I never would have known had I not been told.
Chef Landau mingled with guests after dinner, and it was truly a lot of fun to eat at the Beard house with so many mementos throughout the house.
There were likely 80-100 guests at dinner. Cost was $100 for members and $125 for non-members. I was told this was a bigger turnout than at most dinners. I was thrilled as this would seem to bode well for future vegan and vegetarian dinners at the Beard house.
Among the starters, goat cheese served with apple and merlot-soaked pear (above) was light and flavorful. The cheese had a smooth and creamy texture that perfectly complemented the pear. A medley of mushrooms covered in gruyere (below) with pesto and fresh herbed goat cheese was a hearty appetizer that had the texture of a savory stuffing. The sharp and cool herbed goat cheese provided a nice contrast.
Tofu (below) with sweet red pepper, tomato and potatoes in a mild bean sauce was an incredible combination of flavors.
Mushroom risotto (below) in mushroom sauce with crispy fried cheese was rich and savory. While one would expect a mushroom overload, the dish was mild and well-balanced, with the sauce coming across as a mild mole.
The restaurant is warm and comfortable and the staff is very friendly and attentive. There is an adjoining shop to purchase a variety of restaurant-prepared sauces. There is also a full bar and wine list. Entrees are about US $13 and appetizers are about $7.
