Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Munich's Tantris - A Blend of the Strange and the Sublime

Restaurant Tantris
Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7
Munich, Germany
089.36.19.59-0
www.tantris.de

When architect Justus Dahinden set out to build Tantris, he wanted to make it something exotic and strange. He came away with a restaurant that has stood the test of time. And, while still exotic, is not so much strange, but sensual and sublime - and that doesn't just apply to the architectural elements.

The design of the restaurant, which has two Michelin stars and stands at 80 on the San Pelligrino list of the world's top 100 restaurants, has changed little in the 40 years since it opened. There is orange, shag carpet on the ceiling and oversized mushroom-cap-shaped lamps. Metal flowers in bright colors are reminiscent of daisy chain headbands. And the best throwback - the restaurant was designed with intimacy in mind. Although I spotted a few people who didn't remove their cellphones from their ears all evening, tables were spaced far enough apart to insure quiet conversations.
But enough of the design; let's get to the food. A la carte options are available, but the restaurant features tasting menus as well. The vegetarian dinner tasting is five courses, changes daily and features seasonal produce. Dinner began with a flavorful pea ravioli with vegetable and lime-ginger cream (above).
The season's wonderful white marinated asparagus with minced egg and orange hollandaise (above) followed. The flavors were light, with none overwhelming the other.

The artichoke risotto with artichoke stock (above) was nicely prepared with the risotto cooked just to al dente and the stock adding an appreciated extra hint of artichoke.

Flavor-on-flavor combinations proved popular as with the spinach dumpling with fresh morels and spinach (above). This was almost a bit too heavy at the end, but still quite good.

Tantris is still an unexpected treat in Munich, not quite fitting in with the rest of the city, but in a wonderful and creative way.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Dosa Creates Colorful, Festive Meals in San Francisco

Dosa
1700 Fillmore
San Francisco, CA 94115
415.441.3672
www.dosasf.com

Every time I eat at this South Indian restaurant in San Francisco, it's as though I'm at a festive party with the brightly colored food, lively flavors and snappy spice-infused drinks.

Dosa, which has its original location on Valencia, offers an innovative menu with plenty of options for vegetarians and vegans. Starters are the real appeal and it's easy to make a good meal by sharing a few. And while I don't usually focus on drinks, the drink menu here is not to be ignored. The cocktails feature drinks such as the Peony with gin, hibiscus nectar, coconut, lime and bird's eye chili. I've yet to try one that wasn't only pleasing to the eye, but also the palate.
The colorful, spice-infused cocktails (above and below) are unique and flavorful. This is one of the few places I always order a cocktail.
Dosas are basically a filled crepe that you eat with your hands, dipping it first into the lentil soup or sambar and then add some fresh coconut or mango chutney. One order can make a filling meal or share it will the table in order to sample more from the menu. Fillings range from a blend of potatoes to cheeses and vegetables, such as the paneer and peas dosa (below).

The vada pav or vegetarian sliders (above) have a spiced potato patty, chutneys, caramelized onion and ground chilies and lentils. They're flavorful and the different textures provides a nice balance to the dosas.

Dosa, with its simple yet elegant interior with modern chandeliers, is an excellent choice in San Francisco for dining with those who eat meat and those who are vegetarians as the varied menu offers a good selection for each.