Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Munich's Tantris - A Blend of the Strange and the Sublime

Restaurant Tantris
Johann-Fichte-Strasse 7
Munich, Germany
089.36.19.59-0
www.tantris.de

When architect Justus Dahinden set out to build Tantris, he wanted to make it something exotic and strange. He came away with a restaurant that has stood the test of time. And, while still exotic, is not so much strange, but sensual and sublime - and that doesn't just apply to the architectural elements.

The design of the restaurant, which has two Michelin stars and stands at 80 on the San Pelligrino list of the world's top 100 restaurants, has changed little in the 40 years since it opened. There is orange, shag carpet on the ceiling and oversized mushroom-cap-shaped lamps. Metal flowers in bright colors are reminiscent of daisy chain headbands. And the best throwback - the restaurant was designed with intimacy in mind. Although I spotted a few people who didn't remove their cellphones from their ears all evening, tables were spaced far enough apart to insure quiet conversations.
But enough of the design; let's get to the food. A la carte options are available, but the restaurant features tasting menus as well. The vegetarian dinner tasting is five courses, changes daily and features seasonal produce. Dinner began with a flavorful pea ravioli with vegetable and lime-ginger cream (above).
The season's wonderful white marinated asparagus with minced egg and orange hollandaise (above) followed. The flavors were light, with none overwhelming the other.

The artichoke risotto with artichoke stock (above) was nicely prepared with the risotto cooked just to al dente and the stock adding an appreciated extra hint of artichoke.

Flavor-on-flavor combinations proved popular as with the spinach dumpling with fresh morels and spinach (above). This was almost a bit too heavy at the end, but still quite good.

Tantris is still an unexpected treat in Munich, not quite fitting in with the rest of the city, but in a wonderful and creative way.

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