Saturday, May 21, 2011

Manresa - Where Veggies Travel Just 13 Miles to Your Plate

Manresa
320 Village Lane
Los Gatos, CA 95030
408.354.4330
www.manresarestaurant.com

Pick up Bon Appetit this month (August 2011) and you'll find a story about Manresa's David Kinch, who, as the magazine says, takes local "sourcing a step further, chefs who won't call produce local unless its truly their own."

This is a treat for vegetarians who dine at Manresa as Love Apple Farms in Santa Cruz, just 13 miles away, provides all the produce for the restaurant. I was fortunate enough to feast on the vegetarian tasting menu the night Bon Appetit was taking photos at the restaurant.

I lost track of the number of courses - there was no menu and I've just featured a few of the plates here - but most every plate was a delightful surprise both in the vibrant colors and flavors.
Dinner began with bell pepper and black olive madeleines (above). It finished with chocolate madeleines that looked identical to the savory ones. A clever way to "bookend" the meal.
Fried kale with garden beignets (above).
The juniper berry soda with sorrel sorbet was the one offering that didn't work for me. Fortunately, it was a small serving (above).
Mandarin oranges with jasmine tea gelee (above).
Tempura radishes with creamy salsify emulsion and pickled cucumber with dill (above).
Asparagus with rice, and wild rice vinegarette (above).

Mustard cream with vegetable purees and green vegetable veloute and pansies (above).
Polenta with green pickled strawberries (above).
Potato and green garlic fritter with grilled morel mushrooms and roasted radishes (above). Fruit sorbet with rhubarb yogurt ice (above).

Given the nature of the restaurant, with all the produce coming fresh from Kinch's garden, everyday's offerings will be a bit different. The dishes a friend had just a week or two before had the same basic dishes, but with several different fruits and vegetables than I received.

Manresa doesn't get the attention of French Laundry - probably because being in Los Gatos it's not a destination restaurant - but I find it far better and more deserving of acclaim. Service is attentive and the space is warm and relaxing, with tables placed well apart for privacy.



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