Thursday, December 16, 2010

Millennium
580 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
415.345.3900
www.millenniumrestaurant.com

Millennium, the highly acclaimed gourmet vegan restaurant, has an innovative nightly menu, but also numerous special events. My favorite is their monthly winemaker dinners. Whereas sommeliers generally pair wines to food, chef Eric Tucker takes these opportunities to develop dishes for the wines that are brought to him, generally from small California winemakers. The results are most always enjoyable and sometimes nothing short of perfection.

Tucker uses seasonal ingredients. The November and December dinners focused on mushrooms and and truffles and the November dinner featured Zepaltas wines, a wonderful find as all the wines, especially a very earthy 2006 chardonnay were stellar.
The dinners generally feature six courses and run about $95 with wines. Among the standout pairings were the warm chicories salad (above) with pear poached in chardonnay, vanilla and allspice; seared velvet pioppini mushrooms; and a roasted chestnut-polenta crouton. This was paired with that 2008 chardonnay that was quite unlike any chardonnay I'd had before. Instead of a buttery taste it was more like the earth and the ingredients of the salad were chosen to match.
Linguini with broccoli rabe, fried sage and and shaved white truffles (above) was paired with a 2008 pinot noir from the winery's Suacci Vineyard. The wine was good and the truffles were wonderful. The dish was very light, intending to showcase the truffles.

A baked collard roll (above) with farro and enoki mushroom filling and smoked black lentil ragu was excellent, especially with a bit of mustard-fig mostarda to add sweetness. This was served with a 2007 syrah.I had no idea candied mushrooms could work so well for dessert as these did on top the pistachio-mandarin tartlette with chantrelle scented ice cream and meyer lemon-vanilla bean caramel. This was served with a 2008 late-harvest chardonnay.

The winemaker dinners at Millennium sellout quickly, and there's generally only room for about 35. To learn more about them, sign up for the restaurant's mailing list. Of course, eating in the dining room off of the nightly menu is generally a treat too.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

It's Easy to be Grateful for the Food at Gracias Madre

Gracias Madre
2211 Mission Street
San Francisco, CA 94110-1811
415.683.346
www.gracias-madre.com

Vegan or not, Gracias Madre is possibly the best Mexican cafe in the San Francisco Bay Area. It's somewhat a child of the raw foods Cafe Gratitude, where dishes have names such as "I am Wonderful", but don't let that stop you. Cafe Gratitude serves up amazing Mexican food using organic produce, cashew cheeses and heirloom corn. The textures are so rich and the tastes so flavorful, I can't imagine meat eaters missing the pork or chicken in their sauteed mushroom tacos or mole enchiladas with mushrooms and cashew cheese with sauteed greens and beans (below).

I've yet to have even a mediocre dish here. The guacamole is rich and abundant in flavor. There is a wide selection of salads, such as the persimmon salad with mixed greens, toasted pecans and chipotle vinaigrette with Acme bread and queso blanco, as well as soups and desserts.

The setting is light and comfortable and service is friendly. One of the best deals is to show up between 4 and 7 p.m. Monday through Friday for happy hours when there are $3 cocktails and organic beers on draft. Entrees range from $11 to about $15.