5008 Telegraph Ave.
Oakland, CA 94609
510.652.4888
www.pizzaiolooakland.com
I held off on going to Pizzaiollo for months. The reviews were outstanding, but the crowds of people who came to savor Charlie Hallowell's food were also spending lots of time out standing on the sidewalk waiting for tables.
A friend called at precisely 3 p.m. one day last week (they will take same-day reservations beginning at 3 p.m.), stayed on hold for 15 minutes, but scored a reservation for a time we knew we couldn't make. We took it anyway. And, after a few phone calls to update on our progress, the kind host promised we would have a table when we got there. And we did.
Hallowell is a disciple of Alice Water's, having worked at Chez Panisse before going out on his own. He lives above the restaurant and seems to sincerely see it as a mission to cook fresh foods for his community, his friends and his family-like staff.
Hallowell makes use of what's fresh and local, and the menu changes daily. You can generally count on several wood-fired pizzas, several antipasti, a few larger meat/animal dishes and a few pastas. Plenty of options are vegetarian or can easily be made vegetarian.
My wild nettles and pecorino pizza (above) had an excellent thin crust. The pecorino didn't quite hold up to the flavor of the nettles, but it was good nonetheless.
My antipasti of fried squash blossoms stuffed with cherry tomatoes, basil and cukes were fantastic. I really could have made a meal out of those ...maybe two orders, especially as friends also couldn't resist them.
The restaurant is casual. The kitchen (below) is open. Waiters wear what they want. Despite its success, there's no pretense.
Do check out the drink list - some interesting house specials. Dinner for four - with a drink each, a bottle of moderately priced wine, appetizers, pizzas and a couple of desserts to share came to something over $200.
