at The Coffee Bar on Thursdays and Fridays, 6-10 p.m.
1890 Bryant Street
San Francisco, CA
415.420.2486
www.radioafricakitchen.com
It really is hard to share this wonderful nomadic restaurant in San Francisco. Serving dinner just two nights a week from a coffee house, Radio Africa & Kitchen feels like your own special, secret find that you want to keep that way. But the chef is so terrific and his story so wonderful that it would really be a crime not to spread the word.
Self-taught chef Eskender Aseged fled his native Ethiopia in 1971 at age 19 with only the clothes on his back. He eventually made it to the US, working as a busboy and waiter by day and going home at night to recreate flavors in his kitchen. He left his last job at Campton Place to work on the nomadic Radio Africa and Kitchen. He started serving a group of friends around a picnic table and eventually found places where he could offer his food to the public two nights a week. He doesn't advertise, but he's gradually gained customers primarily through word-of-mouth. Eskender focuses on authentic, healthy meals served while listening to a variety of African music.The menu changes weekly. You can call ahead or check the website to find out the vegetarian offerings. I started with heirloom tomato gazpacho with fennel pollen and creme fraiche (above). It was wonderful, with smooth tomato flavor. The edamame hummus with green olive oil and tartine bread was also a great starter.
For the main course, I had the Ethiopian mushroom wot with vegetable alicha and goat cheese-stuffed squash blossoms (above). It was perfect with the cheese providing a wonderful complement to the lightly cooked and flavorful vegetables.Dessert was an over-the-top (and I mean this in the best possible way) chocolate decadence with mixed berries and organic vanilla ice cream.
Reasonably priced wine pairings ($7-8 a glass and about $26 a bottle) are offered with each dish.
The total bill for two, with two glasses of wine each, was $98. Waitstaff is relaxed, casual and very good.
Radio Africa and Kitchen is truly a wonderful find ...if you know where to find it, hiding out (there's no sign) two nights a week at a coffee bar. Make reservations as seating is limited.
